The adventure in Pakistan of the Ragni di Lecco members Matteo Della Bordella and Giacomo Mauri, joined by Venetian mountaineer Mirco Grasso and Luca Ducoli, a member of the first edition of the CAI Eagle Team, began a few days ago. The quartet will attempt to open a new route on the east pillar of K7 Main (6,934 meters), one of the most fascinating and challenging mountains in the Karakoram.
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The four climbers will be busy until July 15th with the aim of opening a new route on K7 Main
The expedition, sponsored by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), will conclude on July 15th and will see the climbers engaged in an exploration and opening project on one of the most coveted faces in modern mountaineering.
From Charakusa Valley to Base Camp
After arriving in Islamabad and transferring to Skardu, the team will reach the Charakusa Valley. From there, they will begin a three-day trek to base camp.
Once they reach their base of operations, the group will spend between 35 and 40 days acclimatizing and making attempts on the east face of K7 Main, evaluating the best conditions for opening the new route.
K7, icon of exploratory mountaineering
K7 is considered one of the iconic mountains of contemporary exploratory mountaineering. At 6,934 meters above sea level, it offers a mix of technical difficulties on rock, ice, and mixed terrain, making it a highly prestigious destination for high-level mountaineers.

A story of great ascents
The mountain has been the scene of some of the most significant feats of recent decades. From the first ascent by a Japanese expedition in 1984, to Steve House‘s solo alpine-style ascent in 2004, to the first ascent of the route on the east face in 2012 by Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster, and Urban Novak.
A carefully prepared project
For Matteo Della Bordella, this represents a goal he has cultivated for several years and prepared for through a series of challenging technical ascents undertaken in recent months.
Among these, the opening of the route “Mutante” (M8, 6c, AI4+, 520 metres) on the south face of the Petites Jorasses stands out, done together with Mirco Grasso and Giacomo Mauri.

The climbs that preceded the expedition
The approach to K7 also includes the first repeat of the route “Elios & Super Elios” on the south-east face of the Tour des Jorasses, completed by Matteo Della Bordella and Tommaso Vection.
Added to these is the concatenation of Divine Providence and the Central Pillar of Frêney, completed by Mirco Grasso, Luca Ducoli and Giacomo Mauri, confirming the high technical level and excellent preparation of the team involved in the Pakistani expedition.








