Holidays are a blessing. Holidays are a curse. It depends on your point of view, on your commitments or personal passions. At least Christmas falls in winter.
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Story Donatella Munerol
Hiking to Pirlo allo Spino refuge
When it’s spring, and on the few occasions when Easter announces sunshine, then I really don’t feel like putting my legs under the table, in that case I prefer to see the lamb hopping in a meadow.
This year, it’s like this. Luckily, I’m at Lake Garda, and luckily the pressure is high, atmospheric pressure.
What trip could I take? Two Christmases ago, I tried to reach that refuge, but since it was on the opposite mountain, I was forced to turn back. The following New Year’s Eve, I tried to book a night, but it was full. Could this be the right time?
The Pirlo allo Spino refuge answers my call. They’re open, and this time they won’t get away.
The starting point is a stone’s throw from home, a twenty-five minute drive. If I find parking and don’t take one of those countless, damned, concrete roads that leave you stuck in the middle of the woods in total panic, I’m done.

Everything’s going smoothly: warm, sunny, the dog Roger just wanting a picnic. I start walking.
There are several paths to reach the Rifugio Pirlo allo Spino, the one I approach goes up from San Michele, above Gardone Riviera, and the signs say it takes just over 3 hours.
Most of trail 280 winds through the woods, on moderately easy terrain that’s not too rocky. In April, there aren’t many leaves on the trees, and the filtering sunlight is very welcome after a gray winter. In summer, on the other hand, it must be a real pleasure to walk in the thick shade.
As I climb, I keep an eye on the altimeter, which at every glance tells me I’ve climbed about 100 meters. I’ve learned that the mountains around our lakes are quite steep, and if you think you’re going for an easy outing, you’ll inevitably be disappointed.
Roger soon notices this too, his 20cm long lolling tongue asking for water at regular intervals.

At a crossroads, I stop to study the trail signs, chatting with a small group of hikers. The signs indicate another hour’s walk, but according to the altimeter, I still have about a hundred meters of elevation gain to overcome. Is that possible?
Indeed, yes, I will realize that from here the path almost flattens out and soon I will also begin to see the Refuge.
The trail passes by a farmhouse and then opens up to the Spino Pass. Here, the view extends north, with Lake Garda 500 meters below and the surrounding mountain range. It’s not far to the refuge, and it’s even slightly downhill.
Wow, what a refuge! Situated in a breathtakingly panoramic location, Pirlo allo Spino is an imposing two-story structure with several rooms for overnight stays and a winter emergency room. Outside, a large terrace, where on days like this, all you have to do is choose the right table and indulge in a delicious lunch, guaranteed by managers Fabio and Roberta. Do I regret not having spent the traditional Easter with my family? What do you think?

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