Words: Chiara Giordani
Let’s slow down a bit, observe, and take our time. A medium-altitude hiking trail, designed for those who want to take the time to explore the mountains not only for their spectacular landscapes, but also for the human stories that inhabit them. Over five days, you’ll pass through refuges, pastures, and small villages, but above all, you’ll meet the people who live and work in this corner of Trentino, caring for it daily.
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Day 1 – Quiet
We set out from Fiera di Primiero, in the heart of the Dolomites. With us is Martino, a local hiking guide who grew up in these mountains. We enter the Val Canali and the first stretch takes us to Castel Pietra, an ancient fortress nestled between rock and silence, offering a first glimpse of the Pale di San Martino. (If you’re interested in visiting the ruins, you must be accompanied by an Alpine Guide or a Medium Mountain Guide (AMM), who must obtain prior authorization from the Fiera di Primiero Tourist Board office.)
The descent leads to Lake Welsperg, a small body of water surrounded by woods, commissioned in the 19th century by the Welsperg family, a Tyrolean aristocratic family who also owned Castel Pietra. No one here will take our breath away. A little further on, we reach Villa Welsperg, once the residence of the Welsperg Counts, now the headquarters of the Paneveggio Pale di San Martino Park Authority. Walter welcomes us and proudly explains the mission of conservation and coexistence that guides this protected area. The visitor center is a true journey of awareness of the Park’s unique characteristics. Walking through the rooms of Villa Welsperg is like traversing the Park in miniature: from the Canali Valley to the Vanoi Valley, ascending and descending through plateaus, ridges, and forests, on a journey that reproduces the real shapes and differences of the territory and beyond. Upstairs, a Physiotherapy Center awaits us, a place to touch and understand even more how much variety and life the park offers. When I have a child, I can’t wait to take him there!
After about ten kilometers, we arrive at the Cereda Refuge. The Lagher family, who have been managing the refuge with care and attention for years, welcomes us. A warm dinner, a smile, and a chat with mother Anna, who tells us about daily life here. We also stop by her son Federico, who, with a radiant smile, answers, “Quiet,” when we ask, “Why the Primiero slow tour?”
“Primiero Slow Tour was created to connect hikers and local communities, sharing the story of a land where people live in harmony with nature. A slow journey through refuges, traditions, and authentic mountain stories.” — Manuel Corso, Director of the San Martino di Castrozza Tourist Board
Day 2 – Local cuisine
The second stage takes us from the Cereda Refuge to the Caltena Refuge, passing through the climb to Monte Padela, where the view opens up over the villages of the Primiero Valley: the Pale di San Martino on one side and the Vette Feltrine on the other, surrounded by the Dolomites. Weather isn’t on our side, so we make the 600-meter descent faster than light, with the echo of thunder and the arrival of rain making the entrance to the Caltena refuge feel like a warm embrace. Here, too, we’re welcomed like family. We’re pampered by Angioletta and her cuisine, in addition to a welcoming atmosphere where nothing is left to chance. The dishes are authentic and refined, born from recipes passed down through generations and passionately revisited. The story of the region is told through the food here: local ingredients, distinct flavors, true stories. Here, the term “local products” makes perfect sense!
Watch the REEL of the first episode
Practical information
- Duration: 5 days – 4 nights
- Average altitude: between 1,000 and 1,800 m
- Overnight stays: in family-run hiking huts
- Ideal for: curious walkers, families, enthusiasts of Alpine culture
Side activities: canyoning, visits to rural museums, nature observation
The guide’s advice: “Please remember to pack only the essentials in your backpack, otherwise the days pass and your body suffers, you won’t enjoy it anymore.”
Must have: biodegradable wipes
Primiero Slow Tour – From € 375
- Info and Reservations: ApT San Martino di Castrozza, Primiero e Vanoi Booking Office, tel. 0439 767009 banco@sanmartino.com
- Availability: From May to July (August only on request and from September until October 12, 2025)
