Words by Chiara Giordani
Let’s slow down a bit, observe, and take our time. A medium-altitude hiking trail, designed for those who want to take the time to explore the mountains not only for their spectacular landscapes, but also for the human stories that inhabit them. Over five days, you’ll pass through refuges, pastures, and small villages, but above all, you’ll meet the people who live and work in this corner of Trentino, caring for it daily.
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Day 3 – Slowness
The sun shines again, offering us a more relaxed day, perfect for slowing down and observing. We head into the Prati di San Giovanni, crossing rural landscapes dotted with farms and small churches, such as the church of San Giovanni, immersed in a timeless atmosphere. Every year on June 24th, the area hosts a community festival featuring polenta and sausage for everyone. Here, Martino, our guide, suggests the word “slowness.” Nothing could be more fitting.
This is a land where nature is experienced, not just observed: we are in Val Noana, every meadow is well-tended, every trail has a story, every forest is a memory. On either side, the peaks of Feltre on one side and the Pale di San Martino on the other form a contour that accompanies the gaze.
We arrive at the Val de Riva Tibetan Bridge, the brand new attraction that, since 2019, has connected the villages of Caltena and the San Giovanni meadows to the Fonteghi Refuge. Then, seventy meters long and almost thirty meters high, we cross the Giasinozza stream to reach the Fonteghi Refuge, another family-run establishment. Here, Franca and Mariano, generous and frank hosts, welcome us.
Franca is also the queen of the kitchen, along with her son Julio, where they work closely together to prepare simple, authentic, and delicious dishes: fried polenta, polenta gnocchi, mushrooms, and cheeses that, as they say, are “zero meter” (zero meter). In the background, the sound of the Rio Neva flows through the Noana Valley with its crystal-clear waters, where those who want can enjoy canyoning, starting right from the refuge and then flowing into Lake Noana, a man-made lake popular with local fishermen.
Day 4 – Family
The next morning, Mrs. Franca greets us with the word of the day: “Family,” the essence of the Fonteghi refuge.
Today we’re tackling the longest leg of the tour, reaching the Rifugio Vederna in 12 km. We’ll hike the Sentiero degli Abeti Giganti (Giant Fir Trail), a path immersed in a monumental forest: towering spruces, firs, beeches, and yews, which have guarded the Noana Valley for centuries, are the focus of a trail lined with botanical signs revealing details about life in the forest. The Noana Valley is a Special Conservation Area, renowned for its forestry tradition and rich biodiversity. Here, the relationship between humanity and nature is deeply rooted.
We refuel with a picnic lunch at the Coston Val de Stua mountain hut, which offers an unattended shelter and a self-managed fire. Why not light a fire to warm up your sandwich? Of course! After relaxing in the company of some very confident cows, we set off until we glimpse a small plateau that opens like a natural terrace overlooking the valley. These are the Prati dell’Alpe Vederna, located at 1,330 meters above sea level on a plateau known as Pian Grant, once the main source of hay for the stables of Imèr, a small village below. In addition to the meadows, Alpe Vederna offers points of interest such as the Croce degli Alpini, the Rifugio Vederna with its little church, and the remains of fortifications from the Great War. Here, we are welcomed by Cristina, energetic and hospitable, and Marco, a chef who creates magic in the name of simplicity.
At the refuge, we also meet Marcello, a restorer and living witness to the local history and culture. He tells us that the area is governed by a separate authority, the Vederna Consortium, established in 1742, which manages the 63 parcels on a ten-year rotation basis among its members. With the Consortium, he is creating a small museum of rural culture, where tools and reconstructions tell the story of the hard but dignified lives of those who once inhabited these places. The evening flows with stories shared about “little heartaches,” glasses of wine, and a roaring stove.
Day 5 – Simplicity and culture
The last morning is slow. Breakfast is served on the porch, overlooking the entire valley. We say goodbye to the Vederna family, who leave us a summary of the fifth day of the tour: “simplicity and culture.”
We prepare to descend, but Martino recommends one last climb, short but intense: to the Croce degli Alpini (also recommended at sunset) with a view of the valley. From here, the view extends all the way to Fiera di Primiero, which awaits us at the bottom of the valley.
One step after another, we bring home something that can’t be seen but can be felt: the connection with a living land, where nature and people still walk side by side.
A heartfelt thank you to all those who protect and enhance their land every day, allowing for a natural and informed use of their areas.
The guide’s advice: “Please remember, only the essentials, otherwise the days go by and your body suffers, you won’t enjoy it anymore.”
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Practical information
- Duration: 5 days – 4 nights
- Average altitude: between 1,000 and 1,800 m
- Overnight stays: in family-run hiking huts
- Ideal for: curious walkers, families, enthusiasts of Alpine culture
Side activities: canyoning, visits to rural museums, nature observation
The guide’s advice: “Please remember to pack only the essentials in your backpack, otherwise the days pass and your body suffers, you won’t enjoy it anymore.”
Must have: biodegradable wipes
Primiero Slow Tour – Starrting From € 375
- Info and Reservations: ApT San Martino di Castrozza, Primiero e Vanoi Booking Office, tel. 0439 767009 banco@sanmartino.com
- Availability: From May to July (August only on request and from September until October 12, 2025)
