The team composed of Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard and Mirco Grasso recently completed the ascent of the Gringos Locos route, on the northwest face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, as part of the final expedition of the CAI Eagle Team project. An achievement that not only crowns a high-level mountaineering feat, but also represents the completion of a dream that took shape in 1995, when Maurizio Giordani and Luca Maspes attempted this historic route for the first time.
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Gringos Locos
The Gringos Locos route is one of the most difficult and fascinating lines in Patagonia, says Della Bordella. The first to discover it was Maurizio Giordani in 1990. In that year he undertook a solo attempt that was interrupted just below halfway up the wall. A second attempt was carried out in 1995, again by Giordani, this time roped together with the young Luca Maspes, together they made a new attempt climbing 21 pitches and completing about 80% of the line. Subsequently, other attempts were carried out, all without success. The last, in 2018, when Giordani, Mirco Grasso himself and Hervé Barmasse found themselves having to give up due to the prohibitive weather conditions.
The route is 27 pitches long and is characterized by a difficulty level of 7a/A2. Its difficulty and style, which alternates free climbing sections with artificial passages on skyhooks, have made it one of the most sought-after and difficult routes in all of Patagonia. The route rejoins the Via del Hermano in the last 5 pitches, opened in 2008 by Hervé Barmasse and Christian Brenna.
A climb that put the team to the test
The climb of Gringos Locos required great commitment from the team, who took advantage of every window of good weather available to complete the route. During the first attempt Matteo, Mirco and Dario climbed the first 14 pitches. Two weeks later, in a second attempt, taking advantage of a short window of favorable weather, the team managed to complete the climb. The three found themselves climbing in extreme conditions. During the first day the main obstacles were the strong wind and then a wet pitch that pushed the team back. Determined to give it a try, however, the three spent the night on the portaledge and tried again the following morning. Having set off again with better conditions and newfound confidence, another bad blow hit: bad weather on the way. Hence the unanimous decision to continue to the end of the route, climbing even after sunset. In doing so, the three managed to reach the summit at 3 in the morning.
Matteo Della Bordella stressed that due to the conditions the three were forced to change their plans, giving up an alpine-style climb. “Despite this, we still left the wall clean, bringing all the material used back down to the valley, including the 480 meters of ropes that we fixed. The route is therefore completely clean and ready for anyone who wants to attempt a repeat.“
“We are really happy to have completed the Gringos Locos route,” said Della Bordella. “This climb marks the end of a project that has been nurtured for 30 years. Each member of the team gave their all to succeed in this undertaking. The parallel with the beginning of this attempt in 1995 is curious and significant. At that time Giordani and Maspes were a pair of climbers, one an established climber and the other a young 23-year-old at his first experiences. We tried to do the same, bringing Dario, who was also a young climber at his first experience in Patagonia. It was an incredible journey, which made us grow as climbers and as a group.”
Maurizio Giordani in Patagonia too
Great satisfaction also from Maurizio Giordani, who followed the project with great passion, also deciding to join Matteo and his companions in Patagonia: “This result is the perfect conclusion for a historic project, which remains in my memories as an unrepeatable adventure“.
“Maurizio was very keen on style, on the fact that Gringos Locos was not distorted but that it was completed in the same style in which it was seen and conceived” continues Della Bordella. “Our climb fits perfectly into Maurizio’s philosophy. It is certainly one of the most beautiful and challenging lives I have ever had in Patagonia, different from the others. I think that, with better conditions than those we found, it is possible to try it free“.
We are therefore waiting for the first repeaters and the first free ascent.
