He’s the mountaineer of the moment and all it takes is a scroll through his Instagram feed to stumble upon some mind-blowing clip filmed on an immense wall in the Alps or the Himalayas.
His mountaineering is technical, fast, modern and versatile, perhaps unparalleled at the moment.
We interviewed him (on the occasion of the release of the film Chasing Shadow and the 25th anniversary of The North Face’s Summit Series collection at DF Sport Specialist) about his feat on K2 in 2024, when he shattered two records in a single day: an ascent in 10 hours, 59 minutes, and 59 seconds without oxygen from Advanced Base Camp and a paragliding descent.
Here’s what he told us…
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Benjamin Védrines, the interview
Hi Benjamin, it’s been a little over a year since your K2 feat, but everyone’s still shocked. What do you remember about the feeling of landing at base camp with your paraglider?
It was a truly special moment. I expected to be incredibly happy with what I’d accomplished, but instead I was quite disgusted. It had been too much for me; I’d really pushed myself beyond my limits, a far cry from the feeling I’d had returning from Broad Peak two years earlier. Now, however, a year later, I see things from a different perspective. I can understand what I’d accomplished, the performance it was, which is certainly the pinnacle of my career right now.
Your performance set two records in a single day: the speed ascent without oxygen in 10 hours 59 minutes and 59 seconds (breaking Benoit Chamoux’s previous record by 23 hours) and the paragliding launch from the 8,611 m summit. What does it mean to you?
Well, the satisfaction of achieving ambitious goals is what drives me to undertake my mountaineering projects, but what I really take home is the inner growth, the learning I gain from it, the knowledge of myself as a person and as a mountaineer, probably this is what I’m looking for.
In the summer of 2022, after climbing Broad Peak in 7.28 hours by paragliding, you attempted to climb K2, losing consciousness at 8,400 m and being rescued by Francois Cazzanelli.
What motivated you to return to K2?
I like to understand where I go wrong, and that experience changed my approach to the next attempt, both mentally and physically. All in all, that failure turned into a great opportunity to grow and become better. Without that failure, I probably wouldn’t be where I am today.
Your goals, in the Alps and the Himalayas, combine technical routes with speed. What’s your vision of mountaineering?
I love exploring boundaries, everything that hasn’t been done yet. And speed allows me to reinterpret projects that have already been done in the past, especially routes in the Alps. Moving this way allows me to push my limits, motivates me to train hard to complete projects, and ultimately, it’s about the feeling of freedom.
Your feats make you seem like an alien compared to the best climbers in the world. Do you have anyone you look up to?
It’s very difficult to rank the best mountaineers. Everyone can be the best in a certain area: endurance performance, ability to move on vertical terrain, on ice, speed. In the past, I was greatly inspired by the style of Ueli Steck, whom I wasn’t fortunate enough to meet personally. Today, I feel like I’m inspiring new-generation mountaineers, and I like that. My experiences, my growth, are reflected in the growth of other people, other mountaineers.
Still on the subject of your level, are you still able to share your mountaineering with climbing partners or is your future mountaineering destined for solo climbing?
I love both. I enjoy being alone for the peace and quiet, as well as for the connection it creates with nature, the terrain, the energy of the mountain, my sensations, and my body. It’s important for me to recharge my batteries and appreciate these moments of solitude, just as I love sharing my adventures with a partner, finding ourselves tied to the same rope. It’s a unique feeling, especially when you’re competing at the highest level. It’s about pushing your ego not just for yourself but for the team, and it’s powerful.
At 33, after having accomplished so many extraordinary feats, is the fire of motivation under control or does it burn brighter than before?
I’ve changed a lot since about ten years ago, when even a couple of days away from the mountains was enough to make me feel frustrated. If I’d been here (the DF Sport Specialist and The North Face evening) then, I would have felt caged. Now I’m very at peace, I try to focus on the quality of my climbs rather than the quantity, and as a professional climber, I have the opportunity to dedicate myself to the projects that truly interest me. I feel very fortunate that my body allows me to push my limits, and there are so many projects I’d like to complete that I have to choose. Compared to the past, I want to prepare as best I can for each one, and that takes time and dedication, but I always want to be at my best and achieve great things.
