Interview: Giacomo Veduti
Jeff Mercier proves that exploration and discovery are still possible in modern mountaineering. By choosing to climb on ice, he indulges his desire to always discover something new, because this element is constantly changing, rapidly and unmistakably. The line of ascent becomes an art form, a line traced on a page of ice. “Ephemeral,” a film part of the BANFF Italia 2026 program, recounts these climbs between Mont Blanc and Iceland, where passion, adventure, and natural wonders push Jeff to challenge his limits.
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The interviews
FRANCESCO VALENTINUZZI, the Director
Hi Francesco, how did the idea for this film come about? Iceland is famous for its harsh weather conditions, and filming inside caves and icy crevasses must have been no easy task. What was it like managing the production?
The idea for the film came after discovering Jeff’s incredible photos, at a time when I was just starting out in the mountains as a sports and adventure photographer. Iceland was a destination chosen by Jeff, who knows the area very well; thanks also to the support of guides Matteo Meucci and Agust Atli, we worked with a very close-knit group and knew exactly what we were looking for. We were lucky: conditions are usually unstable in November, but we had nine days of perfect weather. Managing the production was still stressful, as even the smallest mistake could jeopardize everything.
Can you tell us about the title of the film?
The title Ephemeral was chosen by director Josiah Jones and Jeff. It reflects the idea that it’s not just ice that’s ephemeral, but also that feeling of lightness and happiness you experience when you manage to overcome your limits.
What was the moment/thing that struck you most while making the film?
Filming in the cave was the most significant moment. In the film, it only lasts a few minutes, but we stayed in the same spot for almost four hours preparing everything: positioning the cameras, ensuring the team’s safety in case of a collapse, and Jeff’s preparations. When he finished his feat, Josiah and I were moved: we knew we had witnessed something unique.
JEFF MERCIER, the protagonist
Hi Jeff, you’ve certainly visited so many incredible places during your explorations. Was this your first time in Iceland? What requirements did the places you chose to climb meet, and which place impressed you the most?
I’d been discovering Iceland’s glaciers for about ten years. Glaciers are obviously very important, but I have to admit that meeting Matteo motivates me to return regularly, because I really enjoy spending time with him.
The first thing I consider is safety. It was therefore essential that the locations chosen present no risk, neither for the climber nor for the belayer, who remains at the bottom of the mill for the entire climb. The second point concerns the aesthetics and possibilities offered by the mill. The colors and shapes created by nature are a very important factor in my decision-making. In Iceland, the color of ice ranges from white or blue to black. I particularly appreciate black ice, whose color comes from lava dust.
As for the shapes, pillars and overhanging bellies particularly catch my attention, because I like it when my climbing is physical and demanding.
In the film, you see me climbing on a very thin sheet of ice: this requires careful consideration before launching the ascent. I like it when you have to think before you act: it’s a very important criterion in mountaineering. Once you’ve made a decision, it’s always difficult to go back.
The deep mills are the ones that impress me the most. Everything is amplified: the sound resonates endlessly, the light dims as you descend, and the darkness is increasingly more frightening than the light of day.
Can you tell us more about your relationship with ice? When and how did you discover it was your element?
I really started ice climbing at the age of 20. Less than two years later, I had become completely addicted to this element. Even then, its ephemeral nature particularly attracted me. The fact that it only exists for a few short weeks a year motivates me even more. Weather conditions are variable: you have to be ready on the right day, because the next day the weather could have caused the ice to disappear.
There are some waterfalls I’ve been climbing every year for over twenty years; I never tire of them because their shapes always change depending on the flow of water, the temperatures, or the wind: a waterfall is always different.
I also appreciate the commitment these climbs require. Our safety depends on the quality of the protection we screw into the ice. Ultimately, we are responsible for what we do from start to finish: from the decision to climb to the chosen route, to the quality and reliability of the protection we place.
For all these reasons, ice climbing gives me a unique sense of accomplishment that I can’t do without.
When you’re not ice climbing, how do you train and how do you try to stay physically prepared?
I don’t like to talk about training: I climb year-round, but first and foremost for passion. I train every week, both outdoors and indoors; then, starting in September, I start dry-tooling to work more specifically on the muscles involved in ice climbing. Naturally, as soon as the conditions in the high mountains are good, I go mountaineering.
If I’m able to maintain a good level at 55, it’s first and foremost because I’m passionate about this activity.
I recently won the competition held in Quebec during the Festi Glace. I’m the oldest in this competition, but despite this, I’ve been in first place for three years.
You’re always looking for new challenges and projects. Already have an idea for your next venture?
I’m searching for an extremely deep moulin, about 100 meters deep. My goal is to climb it in a single push, without stopping and without preparation. It’s a distance that has never been climbed on ice.
